REVIVAL AND INNOVATION: A COMPARATIVE STUDY OF TRADITIONAL (KOKOBILO) AND CONTEMPORARY DISCHARGE RESIST TECHNIQUES IN NIGERIAN FASHION

Kokobilo is an indigenous Yoruba material culture that employs bleaching and resist techniques for fabric embellishment, particularly within traditional textile practices. Despite its aesthetic and cultural significance, kokobilo faces several challenges, including technical rigidity, limited tools and materials, and inadequate documentation, which have contributed to its gradual decline and near extinction. This study argues that the integration of contemporary discharge resist techniques can serve as a viable strategy for reviving and innovating the traditional kokobilo practice. The research therefore undertakes a comparative study of traditional (kokobilo) and contemporary discharge resist techniques with the aim of enhancing modern Nigerian fashion. Specifically, the study identifies the types of fabrics used, examines the bleaching and resist agents employed, and analyses the similarities and differences between traditional and contemporary practices. The theoretical framework is anchored on the revival theory of lost material culture. A qualitative research design was adopted, utilising descriptive, historical, and studio-based exploratory approaches. Data were collected through primary and secondary sources, including oral interviews, observation, documentary evidence, participation, and practical studio experimentation. The study population comprised craftsmen (30), craftswomen (20), marketers (10), and buyers (10) drawn from Adire International Market (Skill Acquisition Centre), Asero-Osiele, and the Dyeing Centre, Itoku, Abeokuta, Nigeria. Purposive sampling was employed to ensure the validity and reliability of responses. Findings reveal that contemporary discharge resist techniques offer greater flexibility, material variety, and technical efficiency, while retaining the aesthetic essence of traditional kokobilo. The study contributes to the advancement of knowledge by demonstrating how contemporary discharge resist methods can revitalises indigenous textile practices and strengthen innovation within the Nigerian fashion industry.